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BURNALCOHOL

A simple way to convert to E85 and have the option to use gasoline

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Too much gas still left in the tank, so only about 55-60% ethanol...I'm assuming it's winter blend; i.e., only 70% ethanol.  No running or starting issues so far.  However, with the snow today I did realize how crappy my tires are...the money I save on the E85 conversion kit will have to goto some new rubber.

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Update:  Finally did the math on the first tank and estimate I was running about 45% ethanol based on the fact that the E85 is actually the winter-blend and about E70 in reality.  No starting issues and ran great.  Just started the second tankful a few days ago and it is 60% ethanol (based on winter-blend calculations).  As long as I turn the resistor up 2/3 of the way when I start it, it starts with an extra second or three of cranking when the temp is down in the lower teens.  Once warmed up I turn the resistor down most of the way and it runs great.  No sputtering or knocking.  Starts immediately when warm.  No CEL.  Steady idle and I swear it runs smoother than it did on gasoline.  Once this tank is gone I'm going to try straight E85 (E70).

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http://filebox.vt.edu/users/krooney/Incr%20Fuel%20Flow%2010ohms.jpg

 

I did a lot more calculations on the effect of a 10 ohm resistor inline with the IAT.  This graph assumes my POT is turned up all the way (10k ohms) at all temperatures.  As you can see not until the summertime will I start to see a 20+ percent fuel flow increase.  Right now, as cold as it is, I might be getting around a 5% fuel flow boost...combined with the ECU's own fuel trim adjustment I guess it's enough to keep me running smooth.  We'll see how it runs on 100% E85, but I'm thinking I might jump up to a 20k ohm POT.

 

Ideally I'd get an A/F meter hooked up and find out what's really happening. 

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Look at the Split Second website. I have their ARM1 mixture meter on my Toyota 22RE and have a ARC2 that I have yet to hook up but it allows adjusting high,low, mid, and boost settings. Since I bought my stuff several years ago they have a PSC1 programmable signal calibrator also. P.S. I think something on their site would allow 1outlaw to run E85 in his Saab without tampering with the ECU. ;)

 

http://www.splitsec.com/index.html

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Guest colchiro
I did a lot more calculations on the effect of a 10 ohm resistor inline with the IAT.  This graph assumes my POT is turned up all the way (10k ohms) at all temperatures.  As you can see not until the summertime will I start to see a 20+ percent fuel flow increase.  Right now, as cold as it is, I might be getting around a 5% fuel flow boost...combined with the ECU's own fuel trim adjustment I guess it's enough to keep me running smooth.  We'll see how it runs on 100% E85, but I'm thinking I might jump up to a 20k ohm POT.

 

Ideally I'd get an A/F meter hooked up and find out what's really happening. 

 

That's a 10k ohm resister inline, I assume.

 

Sounds like you might need another mod to get richer, like maybe increasing the fuel pressure?

 

I was under the impression the ARM1 only worked with the older o2 sensors (2 or 3 wire)?

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Guest colchiro

Question about the A/F meters like the ARM1: they measure lambda correct?  I'd still be looking for "lambda = 1", not wanting it to read "rich" right?

 

Lambda or just under when at a constant speed.

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