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RDKamikaze

Software tuning for Toyota?

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Does anyone know of some software tuning I could use to tune my Toyota?  I have an 06 Solara 4cyl. version.  I'm hoping I could do some software mod before I try a hardware mod (conversion kit).  Please inform me as my research is coming up with mostly American car software only.  Thanks a ton!

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Guest colchiro

That's pretty much with what I came up with 6 months ago.... What I did find was expensive, like $2-3k.

 

I'm going the tuning route. I converted with a plugin converter, then am tweaking my sensors to lean out things. I'm able to adjust my o2 sensor output and this week will start adding resistors to tweak the other sensors when the parts come in this week. Since I have an air/fuel meter and a scangauge, it should be too hard to see some improvement.

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Look up a TRD reflash tool or piggyback controller of some kind. The dealership or factory could reflash it for you, but I doubt this is anything they've ever done or would do willingly because of the fuel swap.

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Thanksa for the help so far, but I'm still pretty confused about tuning my car for E85 without a conversion kit.  And this may help a little:

 

I'm running with an aftermarket header (no built-in cat), exhaust, intake, and the o2 sensor anti-fouler trick.

 

So my question is: Is the only thing I need to do is find some software that would let the injectors stay open a little longer?  Or should I stay with a kit?  And whatever I do, how exactly do I go about "optimizing my fuel efficiency" with E85?  The posts I've been reading turn out undecisive or tangenting randomly.  Thanks again for your help!

 

P.S.  That anti-fouler trick DOES work and I love it!  None of the chips I bought that claimed the same effect worked, and it only cost $5!

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Guest colchiro

My "antifouler", aka "o2 sensor extender" was $9 on fleeBay and I also had to buy the socket to remove it, so about $20 total. Won't know until Sunday how well it worked (4 hours on Interstate). I hope I have to stop and turn up the pot to make my mixture richer. ;D

 

What to do depends on what you want. Do you want an E85-only vehicle or do you need dual-fuel (FFV)? i.e. can you count on having E85 available at nearly every fill? Bear in mind you could fill E85 every other fill and still have a safe % of ethanol in the tank if you didn't run it empty. Also, what is your reason for converting, performance, you're a tree hugger, or you just like the coolest fuel available? 8)

 

For E85 only, you could go the larger-injector route, although the little bit of research I did, didn't come up with much for injectors and I have no idea what my current size is. You'd want to go about 25% bigger.

 

Converting with a converter will get you the capability to run E0 to E100 (in theory) and might also get you cold-start capability, if you live in upper Midwest and your converter provides that option. It's also easily removed. I can disconnect mine in 10 minutes now, including the trip out to the garage.

 

FWIW, you should be able to go to E60 without doing anything. I didn't get my first CEL (check engine lite) until E81. On the other hand, if you spend a lot of time with the "pedal to the metal", you'd probably want a lower mix as you'd be a bit lean at WOT. Some recent research showed many vehicles (including the 2.4 liter Toyota Camry) will get the same or better mileage with E30.

 

Either route (injector & converter) will get you get performance without much tuning, but both will probably require some tuning if you want to improve the mileage.

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It's for the o2 sensor, not E85. When you remove a cat (I replaced mine after gasoline clogged it.) it makes dual o2 sensors read funny. It's an OBD2 thing. I used a cat anyway and still made plenty of power while not upsetting the ECU.

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They install it on the rear o2 sensor (after the cat) for "anti-fouling" and the front sensor for a leaner a/f mixture (my purpose). The extender is on the left and it pulls the sensor out of the direct exhaust flow:

 

57a4_1.JPG

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My "antifouler", aka "o2 sensor extender" was $9 on fleeBay and I also had to buy the socket to remove it, so about $20 total.

 

Converting with a converter will get you the capability to run E0 to E100 (in theory) and might also get you cold-start capability...

 

...but both will probably require some tuning if you want to improve the mileage.

 

I'm sorry that you had to pay for the o2 fix AND a wrench, mine only cost $3 and I made it myself (really easy :) ).  Oh well, you're talking to the man who spent over $70 on defective (to my car at least) o2 simulators (DON'T BUY!!).

 

The kit I'm looking at (http://www.whitelightning.net/) claims to have cold start capabilities, even though I live in the valley in Arizona, so I don't care for it much :P .

 

And on the tuning thing, will it kill performance if I find a way to tune for better gas milage?  I'm just converting because I don't believe we should rely on gas.  I'm not a tree hugger, I'm not converting STRICTLY for performance (but it's a plus!), I'm just trying to alter the HIGH gas consumption one car at a time.  If my car works fine, the whole family and some friends are jumping on the boat! 

 

But I'm still lost on how I could tune my car for better milage.  How could I ever get my Toyota dealership to tune my car for an alternative fuel?  And doesn't that void the warranty?

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Guest colchiro

Your vehicle should go into open-loop at WOT, so tuning for mileage shouldn't affect that much. E85 should give you the same or better performance than unleaded.

 

I'll let the White-Lightning people here (maybe 1 or 2) comment, but I believe it's an ok product. I'd look for a unit that can be "tuned', i.e. has settings that can be changed for better mileage and is marketed in the US. I believe the unit you mentioned has that features.

 

AFAIK, the only problems any of us have had with E85 is plugged fuel filters with high-mileage vehicles after converting and cold-start issues in sub-zero temps. Usually easing into the ethanol, maybe by burning E30 for a while and gradually increasing the % is believed to eliminate the plugged filter, and it sounds like cold starting shouldn't be a problem for you.

 

FWIW, you mentioned bad choices, I spent $495 for a unit from Brazil that took forever to get here, even longer to get the right parts, gives me a CEL with 10% unleaded and has no support, so I think I probably have you beat. :P

 

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