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Everything posted by Corey872

  1. FWIW, I can see content in FF26 and IE11. We go through this issue periodically. Last time it happened, it seemed like it might have been a character set which wasn't installed in some browsers. Funny how it sort of comes and goes over the years, though. One thread - which actually references a second: http://e85vehicles.com/e85/index.php/topic,5372
  2. As I always tell people, it's the gas that goes to crap, not the ethanol. Ethanol will be ethanol forever under normal conditions. If you really want a 'store and forget' solution, I would search for the highest ethanol content possible. E98 or even just denatured ethanol. In a sealed container, that should keep virtually forever. You can then blend it back with a little fresh gasoline as needed.
  3. Took a quick peek - interesting site... so the premise is any station can get on by selling E85 at a buck less per gallon? Not a bad idea...couple of suggestions just shooting from the hip: While the "$1 per gallon" has some gut level appeal, I don't know how long standing it will be. If gas happens to fall to $2 per gallon, might be pretty hard to get E85 at a buck per gallon. Likewise if gas skyrockets to 6-7 bucks per gallon, $1 cheaper ethanol might still be loosing money with under a 15% spread. Granted, extreme cases, but look what gas has done in the past few years. Would be really nice to see it tied to a percentage...20, 25, 30% cheaper. Today's average gas price is $3.28, so $2.28 ethanol would be 30% cheaper. Maybe base the site on percent and make 30 the benchmark so it will be more 'timeless', but show the $$ figure as well? Is this just going to be Michigan, or spread out all over the US? (the latter would obviously be nice!) I guess stations get kicked off or blacked out if they don't keep the price spread? Get the corn off the page...or at least zoom out and make it less noticeable...that is one of the first things anti-ethanol starts whining about, and it's downhill after that! Anyway just my .02!
  4. What the @^$#* no numbers? Sounded like he might be into the 4 digit range, but with those rotaries, you never know.
  5. This is the question I have been asking for years, too. As I see it, there are two main routes to this: 1) Dealers mass produce the vehicle. This has the benefit of OEM reliability, relatively low cost, dealer service in case of a breakdown, etc. However, building an efficient 'E85 only' engine would certainly be a limited production run. As running gasoline in a true E85 engine would likely cause damage, or power would be severey limited in some type of limp mode. Though one has to ask 'If Honda can build a natural gas Civic, and the original Honda Insight was made in production runs well under 10,000/yr, why couldn't they or some other car manufacturer make a reasonably priced E85 engine? 2) Aftermarket - you could have some type of aftermarket race shop or engine builder make an engine. The downside(s) here are that you are subject to the quality of that particular builder. Also, a true E85 engine needs to be a ground-up redesign. Cobbling aftermarket parts and pieces can get you close, but it's sort of like trying to build a diesel engine out of gasoline engine parts or vice versa. This would also be more expensive than a mass produced engine due to it's 'one-off' nature. The other main roadblock now is inconsistency in the fuel. As I've said before, variation in E85 composition is a sure way to kill any kind of dedicated/efficient engine possibility. The 70-85% seasonal swing might be just barely tolerable, but this '51% minimum' sure is not. Can you imagine if you went to a gas pump marked '87 octane regular' and it actually dispensed anything from ~75 octane to 87 octane - and you had no real way to tell which was going to come out at any given time? Engines would be destroyed trying to run the low octane stuff and people would be furious. Yet this is where E85 is at today. Saved only by the fact there are only a handfull of true ;E85 only' engine out there. ...and only a handfull of people who can really take advantage of the cheap fuel and true high mileage / high power potential of E85.
  6. Well, I can tell you my car has averaged 27mpg over the past 35,000 miles...summer, winter, town, highway, etc all figured in. I tracked 17 of the same model car listed on fuelly.com. They averaged 26.7mpg on gasoline over a total of 350,000 miles. Though, I would wager I drive a bit harder than they do. If (and that is a big IF)...if I can drive gently and stay at 60mph, I've had a few full tanks average right at 29mpg. I've had a few partial fills up in the 32-33mpg range over 150-200 miles - though in that instance, the volume of fuel becomes very critical ie 0.1 gallon is +/- 0.5mpg. On the power side, I have not been to a dyno, though I do know of at least one guy who built an engine very similar to mine, except he used a 3mm SMALLER turbo. He dynoed 512HP, 380ish torque at the wheels. The factory stock rating is 200hp at the crank and about 175 at the wheels. I would guess I don't have my engine in that state of tune, but it does show what can be done with an engine actually built and tuned for E85. Gentle cruising 60mph/30mpg AND 400+hp should be no problem. Tune the thing down to the 150 hp range and I can see no reason why E85 shouldn't get very close to 40mpg in light cruising.
  7. Sad part is, if you had an engine built FOR E85, not crap-o-lene, you'd get the 32mpg AND have around 400hp if you decide to put your foot into it. Or you could probably easily be in the 35-40mpg range if you could stand to have a measly 200-250hp.
  8. I concur with 'warrior - this is a 'circuit' code which generally means something on the electrical side. If it was a 'misfire' code, that might indicate something on the fuel / physical injector side. Basically, the computer saw a resistance (open or shorted) in the circuit it didn't like. I'd give all the connectors you can get to a 'jiggle' ...unplug them, plug them back in, make sure they're plugged in tight, etc. Reset the code and see if it comes back. If it immediately comes back, that would generally mean something has died. Injector itself, a driver in the ECU or the add on box. If it takes a while for the code to come back, that might mean something intermittent.... a loose / corroded connection, wire which is loose, etc. If the code doesn't come back, it could have been a transient condition... momentary power surge, brief loss of contact between connectors, cosmic ray zipping through the ECU, etc.
  9. That is probably a good point, too. Though for the general flyer, there aren't any identifying addresses the way there might be on a business flyer, so LT would probably be off the hook unless they actually caught him in the act. But, I guess if they went to the extreme [and that seems to be what police/SWAT teams are good at these days] they might kick in Dan's door for being 'E85vehicles.com', throw a few stun grenades, hog tie him and throw him in the lock-up.
  10. Well, this is just one persons advice and (hopefully) constructive criticism, so take it for what it's worth. You generally have about 2 seconds to capture someones attention before they wad the flyer up and throw it on the ground. Given that, not much I see compels me to keep reading. Here is what I see: The header 'Ethanol E85' is nice, doesn't give me anything compelling though then right below it, you say E85 Ethanol - redundant. The graphic on the right means nothing to me during my two second glance, nor really does the list of links on the left. Even actually reading it, I'm not sure what " 'E85 Apps' (E85 Station Locator) Android: Google Play (994)" does [i really don't]. If I read far enough, I see a list of pros and cons...now I'm worried because I see 'cons' - this should be something new and good - not listing 'cons'. It would be a good educational flyer if people were trapped in a seminar, class room or meeting hall, but IMHO, it needs to be distilled down to something the average Joe Consumer / soccer mom can peel off the windshield and understand in the seconds before it hits the trash. What are the core ideas you want to communicate? [i see these as fairly large bullet points, bold type, centered on the page with maybe small graphics at the side - ie $$$ on the 'Save Money', maybe a FFV emblem/gas cap to show me what I'm looking for, etc. Save Money Now! [that is always good for an attention grabber headline] You have a choice because this is a Flex Fuel Vehicle! [wait, I have a choice? ...what is it, I will keep reading] Try E85 - Fuel approved for ALL Flex Fuel Vehicles [well if it's approved it must be good] Record your mileage on normal gas and the next time you have a choice, try a tank of 105 octane E85 and record your mileage. [this sentence can be a bit longer because now they're hooked...we will also throw in the '105 octane' to hook anyone who knows 2 cents about gas and 'higher octane makes more power'] The E85 mileage will usually be slightly lower, but the price is usually MUCH cheaper. Compare your new and old mileage with the price of E85 vs gasoline. You may SAVE up to $10 or more per tank of fuel. [...bla...bla weasel words at this point... up to $10 or more...should pretty much cover anything, but the '$10 or more' will stick with them.] More info, fuel price calculator, ask questions or join the discussion at E85vehicles.com [OK, one gateway link, I can deal with that...heck, I might even actually remember it!] Local E85 station map on back. [now let them see the map, that is a good idea] Anyway, just my .02, but I think you really need to be attention grabbing at the very first headline and list some very basic bullet points, so hopefully this will at least spur some ideas.
  11. Properly cared for and serviced, most vehicles will do 10 years and multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on gas. E85 is a better, cleaner, more engine friendly fuel than gas, so I can't see where you would have a problem. The claim might seem surprising to the general public, but to those 'in the know' it's sort of like saying 'my factory car didn't rust through in 10 years' (gasoline) vs 'I gave my car the very best primer, paint and three layers of undercoating and it didn't rust through in 10 years' (E85). Guess what i'm trying to say is longer life with a better fuel isn't too terribly surprising!
  12. Yep - exactly this. Your best bet is to stay in gear and coast. The fuel injectors will cut off and you're burning zero fuel. The absolute best you can do is time the approach so you aren't idling at all...the fuel will be cut off as you coast on approach, then you'll be burning the fuel you would burn anyway when you accelerate away. The savings come from not idling the engine at a stop, then when you accelerate, at least you aren't starting from 0mph.
  13. Scott is our 'Hometown Hero' for ethanol, so to speak. He has been instrumental in getting it spread through the county and 'generally' keeping the price in check. Curiously the hoses were yellow at one time, but at some point, most have changed to black? Now it seems they want yellow again. I figured the big signs posted everywhere 'NOT A PHILLIPS 66 PRODUCT' (to which I happily replied GOOD!) would be good enough. I think I would grab a roll of yellow duct tape, or a can of spray paint and make the @$%& hoses yellow, then tell 66 to shove it!
  14. Even though I may not log in daily, I try and poke my head around a couple of E85 forums over my morning cup-o-joe. Been noticing a slow decline in active posts over at 'performance and a somewhat increasing number of spam posts. About a week ago, the dam seems to have broken and spambots began flooding every section of the forum with 2-3 posts per minute. Not sure who is in charge over there any more - but sad to see it go.
  15. I'm about 6'4" barefoot and typically wear work boots which add 1-1/2". So most any car is challenging to some extent. Though I've become really experienced at adding spacers to the seat tracks and steering column. I was somewhat expecting I could do the same to the Focus, but after setting in one, it was really tight - not only in the leg and head room, but also in 'knee room' - it's a bit hard to explain and I don't see that metric listed in the typical stats, but here is a pic comparing the Focus with the Hyundai Elantra which we bought: Focus: Elantra http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/coreyonline/elantradash_zpsb80cc871.jpg[/img] In looking at the actual specs, the Focus gives up about 1.7" headroom, about 1.7" in leg room and probably 2.5 to 3" of 'knee room' because the Focus dash actually curves into the knee space while the Elantra is tapered out for more room. So that is quite a crunch in the volume the occupant has available. Then consider I spaced the Hyundai seats and steering back an additional 2.5 inches and it's a huge difference. Elantra Focus Front head room 40 " 38.3” Front shoulder room 56 " 55.6” Front hip room 54 " 53.9” Front leg room 43.6 " 41.9” On mileage, we just took the Hyundai on a 350 mile trip and recorded 39.7 mpg. Somewhat surprising because the Elantra is a bigger car overall, though it has a curb weight of 2,660 pounds while the smaller Focus is almost 3,000. The only downside of the Elantra is no factory E85. Though maybe a turbo and tune for it sometime soon!
  16. I had some pesos all bagged up and ready to plonk down on a Focus, but just couldn't fit in the blasted thing. I think the engine would have been pretty sweet, too bad it's stuffed in that claustrophobic body/interior. Really sad considering there are much bigger/more roomy cars which get the same/better mileage. Anyway, James, if you are in KC for the week and want to burn up some gas, drop me a PM. I'm in the area, maybe we can meet up for dinner some night. I can bring the Acura and we will have a micro E85 car show.
  17. After quite a long time saving up a 5 gallon can of oil for recycling (on 8,000+ mi oil changes) it was finally time to turn it in at the local auto parts store. The conversation went something like this: [me] Hey - just dropping off some oil for recycling. [clerk] OK [i go peruse the isles for more oil and any gadgets I can't live without] [clerk] OK 3 jugs of Mobil 1 and 3 filters? [me] Yep, that should do it for today [clerk] You know, that oil you dropped off doesn't look too bad, you could probably run it longer [me] Well, it was already in for 9000-11000 miles, I changed it due to low TBN [clerk - with dumbfounded look on face] 11,000 miles?!?! [me] - yeah, I've got the car set up for E85, it loves the 105 octane and the alcohol burns cleaner than gas. [clerk - instantly switching to negative mode] yeah, but it costs so much more than gas. [me] Not really, I rebuilt the engine with 12.5:1 compression and added a turbo for a little 'fun'. I actually get a little better mileage than stock and about twice the HP. E85 is about 3.19 and premium is about $4.00 - so I save about $8-$10 on every tank. [clerk] [Puzzled look - trying to figure out if I'm full of BS or not!] [me] [walks out the door]
  18. Glad to hear everything is working out for you, Rusty. IIRC, in my weed eater thread, you ask about the oil and I don't believe I've had a chance to reply. I'm running the Klotz Super Techniplate. Before I ran it, I did some testing. I mixed it to a 25:1 ratio, then tried various things to see how it mixed or separated with E85. I mixed E85/S-TP in one vial and made another with the oil on the bottom and fuel on the top. After about 4 days the oil dispersed in the fuel, and the mix showed no signs of separation. I tried to freeze the mix to -20F, centrifuge it an hour at 800G, add 20% water, etc. There was no fuel/oil separation what so ever. The only thing I did find was once I went past ~15% water, I got an alcohol/fuel separation, but up to that, everything was a solution. But to do that, you'd have to leave the tank out in the rain with no cap, or purposely add water to the fuel - just no other way to get that much water in the fuel. So I labeled S-TP 'the good stuff' and called it a day!
  19. Time to start prowling 'ebay Brazil'? http://lista.mercadolivre.com.br/Modulo-De-Inje%C3%A7ao 'Modulo De Injeçao' seems to be the key word. Though sadly, their search seems to be somewhat flaky. Using 'Cruze' brings back a bunch of results for 'Hyundai Vera Cruz'
  20. Well, it does say he developed 'the process' but doesn't mention where the underlying technology comes from. I've developed a 'process' for tuning my car on ethanol, though I would be pretty hard pressed to write the software, build the computers chips, etc. I would also point out, this appears to be the same Dr. Pasanen mentioned on here before: http://e85vehicles.com/e85/index.php?topic=4938.0 The claim at that time was a production system built into a 40 foot shipping container which had a capacity about 3000x what one would expect from a field of corn, yet it's been two years and that technology doesn't seem to be in production anywhere. Maybe its stored somewhere with the microfueler which also seems to be MIA. No doubt our fuel has great 'cost' associated with it...probably even more than $6.00. Though that doesn't get directly figured into what the profit the producer makes when selling the fuel. That comes down to the 'price' at the pump...well that and government subsidies, rebates, tax breaks, etc. But as I said in my earlier post, when the 'price' paid at the pump is into the $6 range, that opens up quite a bit of options on the production side. Perhaps our Finnish friends can give a closer estimate on the price, but in searching, I see around 10 SEK/L which works out in the high 5's to $6.00/ gallon. So regardless of the underlying 'cost' if I can take a gallon of fuel to market and sell it for $6, that opens up a lot of opportunity for feedstock and processes vs selling it in the US for $3 which necessitates cheap feedstock and a very low cost production method.
  21. It's not a question of smarts, it's a question of economics. Heck, the US probably invented the technology and gave it away. But when you pay the equivalent of around $6/gallon for fuel and have the 9th highest income taxes in the world, suddenly it's feasible to make ethanol from practically anything.
  22. Went to do a little yard work and found my old weed eater had given up the ghost. Carb was all varnished up, the trimmer head was on it's last legs and gasoline had dried out and cracked much of the plastic in the carb and the primer bulb was essentially gone. Meanwhile I have several bottle of vodka, whiskey and other assorted spirits on the shelf, various assortments of plastic bottles and caps - but all of them in fine condition. So I decided it was time for a new weed eater and a switch to E85. Giving a quick inspection a couple problems pop up. First, I'm pretty sure there should be some type of air filter here. I know they make these things pretty cheap, but I don't think a piece of plastic screen wire is going to cut it: Second, in the infinite wisdom of the government, the mixture screws are practically locked in. Smooth screws, buried in an aluminum barricade! Guess I will have to make another trip to get a piece of foam for the air cleaner. But the roto tool makes quick work of the adjustment screws by cutting a little slot I can actually use with a screwdriver. So I backed both screws out 1-1/2 turns for starters. Tanked up with the 25:1 E85 mix for the bike, primed it and about three pulls later, it fired right up. Got dark by the time I had the yard trimmed, but I may have to shoot a bit of video once I get it broken in.
  23. I’ve added some more pics for your perusing. Will take a stab at some questions: No wheelie bars just yet…maybe when I get the carb finally tuned they would be useful. I thought about ‘branding’ this gas can E85, though didn’t know if the motor would blow up and I wouldn’t need the can anymore! Thought the marker might be a ‘less permanent’ solution. As far as compression – I got anxious to ride the thing and didn’t take the time to calculate it while everything was apart. The stem is bad in my compression gauge so it won’t hold pressure, but on cranking, the needle bounces around 130psi with a peak about 155. With the gauge not holding pressure, it’s hard to say for sure…is that 155 a true psi peak or is inertia carrying the gauge needle farther than it should go? Basically I milled the head as much as I thought I possibly could considering the spark plug still needed to fit in…then I shaved the spark plug and milled some more! You really need to be up to ~10 mph before dropping the clutch or it will just skid the rear tire. If this pans out, what I would really like to put a nice engine on:
  24. I actually started this last year. Had some time to play with it today and thought I'd snap a few pictures. I spent last spring doing some testing on E85 2-stroke oil and satisfied myself technology as advanced enough to make something actually compatible. (that is a whole other thread) But with fuel lined out, time to get the engine. 69cc's of fury! You can pick these things up for well under $200. Doesn't make me feel too bad about taking it apart immediately and running some experiments. Before I ever cranked it over, I milled the head, re-cut the squish band, ported it, matched the ports/pipes, ceramic coated the piston and head, put on a hopped up ignition and jetted the carb. Went a little overboard on the head milling...piston came up and hit the spark plug! So I indexed the plug and ground a bit off the outer thread area. Runs good now! I started with the standard carb 'jet drill' to give it 25% more area. But with all the hop-ups, it needs even more gas. I've now drilled out to twice the diameter, but still wants more fuel...runs pretty good with the choke partially on, but leans out too much with it off. Needs a little work on the ignition, too. I bought this from a hobbyist who builds them in his spare time. While the circuit works, it's kind of an amateur job on perf board with solder blobs to join components. Already had a couple crack loose from vibration. So a true circuit board with some type of potting is in order...one of these days. Anyway, I will post more adventures later. http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/coreyonline/enginedetail_zps1fe106c4.jpg[/img] http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/coreyonline/enginerear_zpsfda78a88.jpg[/img] http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/coreyonline/chaindrive_zpsf670b9f9.jpg[/img] http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/coreyonline/e85_zps5010cb93.jpg[/img] Before and after carb porting / smoothing Fine Chinese engineering... Drilling a #[very dang small] bit through the jet... currently up to 0.040" and still needs more fuel. Milled head and piston. Ceramic coating on the head/piston crown, thermal transfer coating on the head, and dry film lube on piston skirt. Spark plug...tuning is getting pretty close as indicated by the nice gray color on the electrode. I gave my special 'taper cut' a quick sanding to highlight it. This is required so the corner of the spark plug threads don't hit the piston due to the milled head.
  25. At those small distances/gallons, small changes make a huge difference in mileage. At that range, 0.1 gallon in the tank makes 1mpg difference. So if you would have just clicked the spout a couple more times and put in 0.2 gallons more, that would be 24mpg...one more click and you could be down to 23 mpg. Even if you 'always go to the first click' things like the car being on a slight tilt or the sensitivity of the pump could make several tenths of a gallon difference. Higher temperature could make the fuel 'foam' a bit more and click the pump off a second earlier. Looking at my gas tank, it's about 4 feet wide and 1 foot front to back, given that surface area, adding 0.1 gallon makes only about 0.045 inch difference in the liquid level. So very tiny influences can make several tenths difference. Coincidentally, my best tank ever ... almost 32mpg was on a tank where I just happened to be passing a station, saw a cheap price and put in 3-4 gallons. But pretty easy to chalk it up to measurement error.
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