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About Typhoon

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    Canberra, Australia
  1. I live in Australia and so called socialised healthcare works very well. It constantly amazes me to read stories of US citizens going into hospital for surgery and coming out with a crippling lifetime debt. No nation should allow that to happen to their citizens. The Australian system has everyone pay a certain percentage of their taxes into Medicare, if you earn over a certain amount of money, you can either pay a higher Medicare contribution or take out private cover, which reduces your Medicare costs, this is calculated annually at tax time. The Medicare system also sets schedules and prices for procedures, examinations, xrays etc, so absolutely no gouging or corruption can occur within that system. How having private cover works is like this: Medicare covers the usual basic, day to day medical expenses (if I see a GP with a cold, I get reimbursed around 80%). Specialists and xrays are also covered, but due to my higher pay, I pay a larger percentage towards them, Medicare still covers a good amount of it. Now, what my private cover does is give me things like free ambulance, emergency treatment, access to private hospitals, elective procedures and dental work. So it works out pretty good in the long run. I like the fact that I can walk into any hospital or doctor's surgery anywhere in Australia and receive the same treatment with no real immediate cost to me, and get treated promptly, all due to Medicare and a national system that everyone uses and understands. Everyone, at some stage of their lives, is a low income earner, usually at the beginning and end of their working lives, so no one gets a "free ride". Realistically, health care has to be looked at as a whole of life thing when making arguments about who should pay, who is a leech on society etc. Why should someone who has paid their taxes and contributed to society for say 30 years, suddenly end up losing their house and paying a debt till they die, just because they had a car accident? That sounds insane to me (and the rest of the civilised world). I hear about the "cost" such a system will have to your society, well, guess what? It won't. A far higher cost is imposed by penalising people $200-300k just to have a critical operation and making them slave away for the rest of their lives, or worse, that person realising they can't afford the surgery, so they drop out of the workforce and onto welfare. So not only do you have to pay for them for the rest of their lives but you lose a contributing taxpayer. For a nation that prides itself on a fair go and for protecting the freedoms of it's individuals, it seems odd that you have allowed your health system to get so out of shape......
  2. That's a possibility. I have enough room to run a pipe behind and above the radiator cooling fan.
  3. Then I block airflow to the radiator. The Volvo uses an intercooler the same size as, and mounted directly in front of, the coolant radiator. Wish it was so simple!
  4. I considered heated air off the exhaust but due to the design of the engine bay and air filter box, it would be difficult to achieve. Plus, even if I heat the air going into the airbox, the intercooler is going to, well, intercool it again! Even if the interheater only kept up at light throttle and cruise volumes of air, I'd be happy as it would improve economy and atomisation at those speeds then allow full power due to the airflow sucking lots of heat out of the heater.
  5. It's the middle of winter here and I am experiencing poor fuel economy with my car. It has a very large intercooler and my typical measured air intake temps (measured just before throttle body) are typically below 20 degrees c. I know I have incomplete combustion because I can smell it. I'm mulling over ideas in my head to heat the intake charge somehow, it has to be cheap, foolproof, as reliable as the OEM installation and easy to regulate temperatures with. I had an idea, I was thinking about how the stock intercooler is lowering charge temps way too much and what I needed was an interheater. We know that heating the fuel helps a little but heating the intake air is far superior. So, I propose to fit an air to water intercooler between the OEM front intercooler and the throttle body, and circulate engine coolant through the air to water unit, taking the coolant out of the cooling system AFTER the heater tap. This way, I only get preheated air when I have the heater running in the cabin, ie, the heater works when it's cold only. I will use an inline unit because I have the room to do so, but there are plenty of other shapes and sizes for other installations. Do you think I could get enough heat out of an intercooler running at say 85 degrees c to heat the incoming air 10-20 degrees?
  6. I've been running E85 in my Volvo since early February. I'm still waiting for my ancient, 1990 fuel system to melt, as all the internet experts say it will. :sleepy: I'm getting typically 10% worse mileage than when I was running 98 premium (the Volvo has to run higher octane). Given that I filled up last friday for $1.15 and premium unleaded was $1.55, I can live with the mileage!
  7. I have cold starting nailed, it is a non issue now. I have the cold start injector wired up to a momentary on push button on the dash. Hitting the button whilst cranking results in a cold start (0c/32f) in less than three seconds, followed by a perfect idle. I can really recommend this for anyone not running a dedicated aftermarket ECU with the ability to tune cold starts. But you must use a cold start injector, it provides a very finely atmoised mist, rather than a fairly coarse jet that a normal port injector provides. The car scared me today. Accelerating briskly, in full boost, two muffled pops from muffler and then a constant misfire. I thought the worst immediately of course. Pulled over and a spark plug lead had popped off a plug! Phew! The car is running really well since I've fixed the coolant temp sensor and reset the ECU, learning E85 very nicely.
  8. I set up the cold start injector this morning, I can activate with a momentary on push button switch. It is an excellent solution, started second or third revolution at around 5 degrees c (41f). I'll test it again tomorrow, expecting another sub zero morning, but I think it's a winner. You can also blip the button on and off to help establish a nice cold idle, takes about 10 seconds and you can leave it alone. I just think that no matter how big an injector you run, E85 needs to be really finely atomised and supplied in great quantities to get a good cold start. The cold start injector does that for me.
  9. Thanks for the reply. Yes, fuel heating would be difficult but it is an option. Even picking up 10-15 degrees would help. I agree with all your comments about Nichrome wire, insulation etc, I knew it would not be that simple. It's not a dead head system, However, it only flows fuel for two seconds pre start, so you would still have a fair to good chance of getting some warmed fuel into the combustion chambers. Also, a fuel rail is relatively small in thermal mass, I reckon it would heat fairly well, but I do agree, it would take a lot of heat. I have dismissed heating intake air as being too heavy on electrical consumption, although it would be effective. I'm against blending as it's too much work and a compromise for 15-30 seconds of cold start. I want to devise a system that approaches the convenience of electronic fuel injection, something simple and that anyone can do if they borrow my car. One of my goals when modifying my vehicles is to ensure that anyone can use the vehicle, I strive for total automation if at all possible. The maximum cold temperatures I would be up against would be -8/10c ( 17/14f) and that would only be two to three months of the year however 0c(32f) will be likely around another three months of the year. I'm behind the 8 ball with compression as well, I have a factory turbocharged car with 8.8 to 1 compression. I've researched my cold start injector and discovered it will only be operated when temperatures are below -15c (5f) so I intend to initially run a manual push button to fog the intake with extra ethanol and see how that works. It should work well enough. If it does, I will set up a timer so it does this automatically every cold start. I saw a cool stand alone glow plug timer/relay setup that measured engine temp and vaired on time accordingly, I think that controlling the cold start injector would work well.
  10. What you could do is use some sort of tank you could fill with fuel and pressurise with compressed air, something that is meant to store a liquid under pressure, maybe a fire extinguisher or BBQ gas bottle? Then all you'd have to do is keep it filled with fuel and pressurise it with compressed air. You need about 30-40 psi for those injectors to work well. Although I'm convinced that if you mist enough ethanol into the intake, it'll start well. I just don't think stock intake port fuel injectors atomise the fuel finely enough for a good cold start on ethanol, they rely on the fuel hitting the back of the intake valve as a stream, and atomising due to the impact/heat of the valve, which just won't work for a cold engine and ethanol.
  11. Interesting you mention an injector. My car has a cold start injector. I was testing it this evening (checking for fuel, that the injector worked etc) when the idea of using it to prime the manifold came to me. So I think I'll rig up a push button on the dash and wire a diode in the control wire from injector to button, so the ECU will still do it's thing when it wants to. Most all fuel injectors have +12v put to one side with the ignition on and the ECU grounds the injector to pulse it. So all you need to do is ground the injector and it'll squirt. The diode prevents you confusing the ECU. You could potentially do this with a whole bank of injectors too, just hit a button and dump bucket loads of fuel into the intake. If you bought a cold start injector from any older Bosch fuel injected engine (most 80's Toyotas run the same style injector), it would be easy to fit, they have a two bolt flange that holds them on. So, drill three holes into intake, tap two, run two wires and a switch and you'd have a priming injector. The cold start type injectors really mist the fuel up finely too, not like a standard injector. Mentioning ether, Detroit Diesels used to have a cold weather starting kit that used ether. You plumbed up a small pipe (brake line size) into the supercharger inlet and that pipe ran into the cabin where it had a screw socket. You had screw on ether capsules (like soda bulbs) that you screwed on whilst cranking engine, ether bulb was pierced and ether dumped into supercharger, resulting in vroom.
  12. It's getting cold down here, the Volvo is having issues cold starting on E85. Temps are between 0c and 8c ( 32-48f). The car will start on the third crank, but it's obviously not happy and needs the throttle nursed for about 30 seconds. Is there an inline heater I can plumb into the fuel line? My current thought is to wrap the fuel rail with Nichrome wire and control the Nichrome element with a 30 second relay that activates with ignition on. I can't see any problems having the heater turn on for 30 seconds every start, even on hot soak, the fuel rail should cope with a little extra heat?
  13. United have been good with their take up of E85, but they are a small independent chain, so their coverage is sketchy. Caltex claim to change the blend for winter. I'm not too worried about cold starts, so far. But our winter is fast approaching so I'll see how unmanageable they get. I have a few ideas of how to get around hard cold starts if need be, one is a fuel rail warmer, the other is cycling the cold start injector manually (remote switch on dash) to "prime" the intake with fuel. Holden have a flex fuel vehicle based on the Commodore down here, it's just the SIDI engine with two ECU maps and a fuel sensor. Toyota have a Camry available I believe and a couple of european manufacturers have flex vehicles available. I'm not up to date on the newest cars though. HuskerFlex, I don't follow the Rugby as much as I used to, when the NRL started chasing dollars instead of doing good for the game, I lost interest. As an example, they forced several smaller teams who weren't making much money out of their clubs to merge. That basically removed the team I supported (Balmain Tigers) from the region and I lost interest. Still follow rugby union, but not at a club level, I'll watch the international games.
  14. Thanks for the welcome! I've spent all my life living in New South Wales, currently in Canberra, in the Australian Capital territory. Cane is grown predominantly in Queensland, you are correct. However, northern New South Wales has a large area of cane growth in a region known as the northern rivers. It's where the ethanol I use comes from. E85 is available in all the major population centres on the east coast of Australia. Caltex has an agreement with the flex fuel vehicle manufacturers to roll out E85 at the very least in these centres. It is gaining in popularity quite quickly. Our government is looking into growing cane in northern Australia, firstly for production of sugar for the ever expanding south east asian export market, and also as an excellent source of ethanol. We have vast areas of land suitable for cane growth in the north, and the rainfall to make it happen....fast! I'm really excited by renewable fuels such as ethanol and I expect Australia to become a big player in the next 5-10 years. I think we'll start exporting ethanol to south east asia once the northern schemes take off. Sugar cane is pretty much the perfect crop for fuel, you get a really easily sold primary product out of it (sugar) and a lot of green mass that grows really fast for fuel.
  15. Hi everyone, first post. Found the forum on an internet search and I like the real information here. Anyway, I've owned this 740 turbo for about five years now, it's been modified with a decent exhaust, performance chips and more boost on the stock turbo. The engine has always needed the highest octane I could feed it, and that was getting expensive! So E85 started to interest me. Here in Australia, E85 has been slow to roll out, so I had been waiting for some sort of infrastructure to appear locally. Finally two service stations in my city started carrying it, one about three minutes from home, which is great! In Australia, our ethanol is produced from cellulose and sugar cane waste, so it's a byproduct and that makes me happy to use it, it's not a crop grown specifically for fuel. So, I knew I was right at the limit of my stock injectors with the performance chips and running 16psi of boost, plus the cost of premium unleaded fuel. After talking to the manufacturer of my chips ( a great Swedish guy who had been running his own car on E85 for along time), I decided to go for it. I purchased some 440cc injectors, dropped them in and the car has been running really well ever since. 440cc injectors were chosen as being 45% larger than stock. Given the car was right at the limits of the stock injectors, I erred on the larger side. The Bosch EFI system in the 740 (LH2.4) is an excellent system, very adaptive and modern for it's day. It has no issues running E85 and adapting things like idle, cold warm up etc to the E85, which as you know needs special attention with high alcohol fuels. On a really cold morning, the car will start, run for a second then stall. Second start is perfect. The chips I have in the car were originally developed for premium unleaded, but work really well with E85. They feature a much more agressive spark advance map and have had some of the "safeguards" removed pertaining to overfuelling and underfuelling, both of which can set off the stock ECU and prevent it from storing any data for these conditions. Bosch LH 2.4 is quite adaptive as I mentioned earlier and will move quite a way from the standard baseline chasing the right tune for the engine, using the lambda sensor to do so. The only issue with this learning is it takes several days of driving for it to fully fine tune things, but I can live with that. I've been running E85 for around four months now and the entire fuel system has held up, no leaks or damage anywhere. The engine is really happy on E85 and it "feels" like a really good tune, no flat spots, great improvements in midrange torque on E85. I have the boost wound back to 13 psi at the moment, when I get a chance I am going to a dyno to ensure A/F ratios are good, then I'll wind boost back up. I also feel the engine runs a little cooler on E85 and is definitely smoother and torquier in the midrange. The best part of it is, when I changed to the larger injectors and still had a quarter of a tank of 98 unleaded, the car still ran just fine, the ECU seemed to manage with the big injectors on the unleaded. So I have the ability to run a tank or 98 if I need to (although it would be a last resort due to the learning I mentioned earlier, would "ruin" the E85 fine tuning the ECU has done). If I could mention a few things I feel are necessary to get a good swap over to E85: Ensure the EFI system is in good order beforehand. No codes, all sensors working well. The lambda sensor is VERY important. Make sure it's good or new, it makes learning easier on the ECU. Just buy new injectors. They're cheap enough now to make it worthwhile on an older engine. And it's one variable (used injectors) you don't have to worry about. If you can buy performance chips for your car, do so. Optimising the tune for E85 frees up so much useable power. As it is now, the car is using, at worst, 15% more fuel than on 98 unleaded around town. I'm really happy with the conversion. I intend to convert my Alfa over soon, however, it uses an older style injector that is hard to find in larger flow rates. However, it runs a conventional electronic distributor, so tuning spark advance is easy. Oh yeah, I LOVE the smell of E85 cars!
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