Jump to content


Full Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Obormot

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Base fuel here is E0, but producing of ethanol is pretty cheap here, much cheaper, than gasoline, and as i know, here there are some illegal ethanol plants, that producing ethanol and mixing ethanol to gasoline, so under E0 mark may be E10 or E20. also here is tax benefits for fuels with more than 30% of ethanol, but ethanol must be supplied from official plants (price is higher), and we have a lot of "official" E40 fuel stations. not every of course, but many. very soon base fuel become E5, and after 2-3 years - E7, there is a law about it. also we have LPG on almost every fuel station. price is more than twice lower, than gasoline. CNG not very popular, some years ago it was very popular for trucks and buses, becouse of extremelly low price, but now price is slightly higher, than for LPG, and equipment for converting is much more expensive. as i know, there are no big problems with cars with electronic injection systems with lambda correction, most of them can work on fuel up to E40. but carbureated motors working on lean mixture on ethanol-based fuels, carbureator must be adjusted. E5 - E10 is OK without adjusting, but no more. for small 2-stroke motors there is only one complain: ethanol badly mixing with 2-stroke oil. so usually operator mixing fuel and oil just before use, or shake premixed fuel fefore start if he can. ethanol fuels giving less smoke and stink, and less deposits inside motor, so usually operators not complaining. for testing and development i making E85 mixture from dehydrated ethanol and gasoline. also i have some testers in different countries in Europe, they have E85.
  2. looking for partners in USA for reselling conversion kits. CE and TUV sertificates obtained for bioadapter. also green bosh ev1 and nippon denso connectors arrived (other types will be later), so now it looking like this:
  3. for emerjency case, you can open the hood, open the air filter box, and spread onto air filter about 3-4 teaspoons of gasoline, than close box, wait 5-7 sec. and trying to start the engine. it really helps, this quantity of fuel will be enough for starting and 1-2 sec. of idling. for this time pistons and cylinder walls will slightly heat up, and fuel from injectors will start to evaporate and burn. also you can use small portion of ether or LPG gas like propane or butane. if you have electric power near, you can insert usual electric hair dryer (or any other heater) into air intake, turn it on and then start engine.
  4. as i know, everything is normal when temperatures are pretty low, my partners from Europe write, that -20...-25C is not a problem for starting and driving. of course longer warm-up time needed before driving. i tested cold starts and driving at -20C, no problems. preheating of intake air really helping to decrease warm-up time, fuel consumption and increase driveability in low outside temperatures. for example, i installed an automatic thermostate from old carbureator car, that mixing hot and cold air and hold temperature about +30C. there are many installations, look at serial number at the photo i can send some photos and reviews, but i prefer not to sell adapters directly from my site, but to find a dealer in other country and support his business, so most installations was done without my involvement. about 6-8 cyl. units - as i know, most producers making such units, but usually it is just bigger box with 2 usual 4-cylinder units inside so i do not see any troubles to use 2 separated units. and as for me, installation of 2 separated units are easier, espesially for V6-V8 engines. you can place each unit on each side of engine, it is better than one unit and very long cables. just set "Auto" mode and thats all, no need to touch it any more. about http://sourceforge.net/projects/bioadapter/ - yes, one user made his own firmware for one of old models, why not? inside is usual atmega processor, anyone can use it but is it not upgrade, i think it is not needed for most users. usual drivers need just install-and forget advanced users can reflash teir ECUs for example, or convert their motors for E85 by bigger injectors or fuel pressure, i think this way is better, but need spacial tools, knowledge, place and time for make it.
  5. if temperature is higher than +15 C, no additional enrichment at all. lower temperature - bigger additional enrichment. cold start enrichment is constant for first 10 sec., than smoothly decreasing in next 50 seconds. i'm looking for resellers, bulk prices are twice lower
  6. and some other improvements. http://bioadapter.com/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=45
  7. Ethyl acetate, acetone are soluble in water, ethanol and gasoline and can be used for denaturation of hydrous ethanol fuel. Also they have lower flashpoint and will slightly increase cold start properties of ethanol.
  8. here is a good info about different ways of conversion: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=73061 some recalculating table: 3,5 bar = 100,0% (original) 3,6 bar = 101,4% 3,8 bar = 104,1% 4,0 bar = 106,9% 4,5 bar = 113,4% 5,0 bar = 119,5% 5,5 bar = 125,4% 6,0 bar = 130,9% 6,5 bar = 136,2% 7,0 bar = 141,4% adjustable FPR and conversion kits - both ways are suitable for this engine. both ways can give possibility to switch between different fuels quickly. adjustable FPR can not automatically resolve cold start problem, but i think it is not important for sea doo :-) conversion kits can be installed very quickly and easy, and removed without traces. for installation of adjustable FPR you need to cut some fuel pipes. if your injectors has no extra flow reserve, with conversion kits AFR can become lean at WOT modes. this will not happen with adjustable FPR if fuel pump is in ideal condition. for sea doo conversion kit must be in water-proof case. adjustable FPR do not have this problem at all :-)
  9. if engine has no lambda (O2) sensor in exhaust, or if lambda correction range is too small (+/- 5...10%) conversion kit must make mixture 40-42% reacher for E85, not 30%. not all kits can do it. also you can connect second fuel pressure regulator, adjusted for bigger pressure, and switch between stock and new FPR by manual or electric valve depending from used fuel. this way is more complex. If engine has not port fuel injection, but direct fuel injection, maybe those methods will not work - i will read specs for this engine. about oil - you need spesial 2-stroke oil for E85 only if you will mix oil to fuel. if engine have separate lubrication system you can use usual motor oil for this motor.
  10. they can add 5% of Diethyl ether into ethanol - and cold start problem will be solved. Diethyl ether making from ethanol, by heating with catalyst. Very easy. Even for home-brewers with DIY ethanpol stills.
  11. in late 60-x in USSR was invented and produced additive ("cetane improover"), that allows to use gasoline, ethanol and methanol in usual diesel engines (for all-fueled tank diesel engines) without any modifications. for example, gasoline needs 1-1.2% this additive, ethanol - more, about 5-7%. in english it will be something like "cyclohexyl nitrate" (i'm not sure) also there is another multifuel invention: http://www.smartplugs.com/fuels/index.html
  • Create New...