E85 Conversion > Engine Tuning For Ethanol
UOA + E85 = Run it 8,000 miles
volvo9:
I know this is an older thread but I'm glad to hear your engine is running so good on E. Installing a momentary push bypass switch for startup sounds like a good idea, that way you can't leave it on and accidentally start your car into something, and you could very well reduce wear on that thrust bearing.
Not sure when I last posted here, but I got a "new" car, an 09 Civic Si, been running E85 for near 20k miles (car has 30k) and change my M1 around 7500mi each time. Haven't tested it yet, but glad to know a somewhat similar, but much higher performing engine seems to be keeping the oil in good shape.
I picked up a flashpro for this car about 3 months ago and I've been having a blast learning and tuning for full time E85 use. I'm probably getting my 98 Hatch back on the road soon and will probably end up buying Hondata's engine management for that also, having full control of fueling is something I won't be able to do without ever again.
Keep it up!
Corey872:
Here is the next report in the series...put a little over 8800 miles on this oil. It's good to see no water, antifreeze or fuel contamination in the oil at all. Iron and copper are also trending down as break-in continues. Curiously lead ticked up a bit. This interval did see some more 'spirited' driving as I was exploring a bit more of the outer limits of turbo boost.
The car was also parked for approximately 3 months during the winter while I worked on some suspension issues. Strangely, when I hit the road again, it needed a good 3-4 tanks of fuel before the mpg's crept back up to the pre-parking levels...almost like another mini engine break-in.
I also noted to Blackstone, the thrust bearing in this engine takes a beating due to the higher spring pressure on the high performance clutch. This may be one area where lead could enter the system.
Even though I try to minimize 'riding' the clutch and don't sit with it held in for long periods of time, it's still required to depress the clutch to start the car...putting a high load on the bearing at the worst possible time. Maybe I should wire in a bypass switch for starting...though I still need the clutch switch for launch control! :)
Even with 8800 miles and 10 months in the engine. There still seems to be a good amount of base reserve in the oil. I suppose as long as there is any at all, the oil is still neutralizing acid - so looks like the oil could actually go even longer.
Corey872:
Thanks for reminding me. The lab did not have a VOA they could share, but commented:
"...boron in Mobil 1 5W/30 usually starts out around 65 ppm. Calcium reads around 2500, Phosphorus reads around 750 ppm and Zinc reads around 850. Molybdenum typically reads 120 ppm, so most of what we found here is from oil additive, and
chances are good most of the pre-lube you uses was washed out at the first oil change. Yes, we typically see good results from K&N filters, and it looks like it's doing a good job here. Most of the excess silicon is likely due to sealers used during engine assembly and should look better next time."
wyochimneysweep:
you ever get a virgin oil sample?
Corey872:
I'll shoot the lab an email Monday and see if they have something they can share. Scanning the BITOG site, there are a couple posts on the virgin 5w30, though they seem a bit sketchy...12ppm Pb in a virgin oil? The most credible seem to show moly around 80 in the new oil. M1 racing seems to show about 1600 - so they really boost the moly up there - might have to look into that.
Silicon abounds around here...farm land, I pass a quarry 2x per day, gravel roads and they recently chipped/sealed the road on my 50 mile round trip commute to work, so it was a dust pit for months. Plus, the engine doesn't use many actual gaskets - oil pan, timing cover and several other places only use silicone based gasket sealer - so I'm sure that can leach some silicon, too Actually, now that I think of it, surprised silicon isn't higher.
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